The Journeys ... The last trips

After three years in Switzerland and only chances to short-trips (1 to 1.5 months at a time), it was time to leave Switzerland again. The idea was to go to Perth, Australia and study Multimedia Arts for another year. But after three years in Switzerland and only shorter travels (1 - 1.5 months at a time) during this period, it was time to set out for another real overland trip.

I flew into St. Petersburg from Zürich. Wow, what a start for the trip: midnight sun, a stunningly beautiful city, being taken in with squatters! This was the beginning for a spectacular trip through Russia, that took me three months. I went all the way up north to Murmansk, South into the Altay Mountains and as far east as Tynda. Once you understand the Russian attitude, you start to realize what beautiful people they are. I know, many people would disagree with me. But trust me, there is more out there than just the grumpy, middle-aged woman at the train ticket counter! I was fed, offered overnight stays, made friends - especially with the younger Russian, and just generally had a good time. Another reason to this was, that as soon as I would leave the typical TransSib stops (St. Petersburg, Moscow, Yekaterinenburg, Irkutsk, Ulan-Ude), there would be no tourists around! Apart from these cities, I have met four (4!) westerners in three months. That's my style.

Anyhow, after three months, it was time to say dosvadanja rosja. I entered Kazakhstan. To be honest, I did know the slightest thing about the Central Asian countries when I got there. Sure, they are ex-Soviet countries. But that is it. And this is why I went there. I had to see. Kazakhstan is a, hm, funny country: from desolate steppe, over spectacular mountain ranges to poisoned Soviet left-overs, there is everything to be found there. And the people are absolutely beautiful: if I would have accepted every invitation, I would still be there! I stayed with families, that would look after me as if I'd be their own son. And my funds were not to be touched. I intended to stay two to three weeks in Kazakhstan and ended up using the whole of my 30 days visa before I crossed into Kyrgyzstan. The Kyrgyz people are as hospitable and friendly as the Kazakh - the only difference between the countries to a traveler is, that Kyrgyzstan is spectacularly beautiful! Mountains everywhere and massive lakes in-between. A good place to camp, hike, horse-ride, stay in Yurts or whatever other adventure you have in mind. Getting around is sometimes a bit of an adventure as well - but don't we like that! Well, I do! But ask Allister for cross-reference about his trip from Bishkek to Osh! Haha. Well, after three weeks, it was time to tackle the newly opened Irkeshtam border crossing into China. What an epic trip, with hitchhiking through wastelands with the Pamir mountain range looming in the south, army outpost, wickedly bad streets and a night on a metal dump cum trailer park cum border check point - and all this on some 3000 meters in October! A story to tell. The short stop in Kashgar, China was out of pure necessity, because it is the only real way to get to the famous Karakorum Highway which links China and Pakistan. However, apart from the fact that I just love traveling in China, it had another positive point: my diet! After almost five months in the former Soviet countries, which is heavily meat-oriented, a good Chinese vegetarian meal was a blessing to my bruised vegetarian stomach and taste-buds!!!

And then the unexpected highlight of the trip happened: Pakistan! I crossed into Northern Pakistan with a traveling friend over the 4800 meters Kunjerab pass; both of us clued to the window! It is just simply stunning! And trust me, I am from a mountainous country, I know what I am talking about! The north of Pakistan is probably the most beautiful destination I have ever visited - and true followers of this site know, that this are not few by now. The funny thing was, that Allister and I expected to descend into Hell. It was Pakistan, for crying out loud. That Muslim country, where everyone hates westerners. Where Christians are regarded as the walking devil on earth. Where Osama roams freely. And even worse: during Ramadan. What a perfect example of how twisted and brain-washing our western culture is! The picture of Pakistan, that I had - unwillingly - in my head was so completely wrong, it took a few days to loosen up and accept the beautiful people of this country. People are friendly and hospitable to foreigners (as the Koran demands), usually interested in your view on religion (ok, do not go TOO far with this) and if you respect them, they usually respect you. I know, this is a man's talk. I am aware, that to a woman, Pakistan leaves a completely different impression. But here, I can only tell my experiences! I made a few side-trips off the Karakorum, was in Pakistani Kashmir and in SWAT valley and ended my thrust westwards a few kilometers away from the Afghani border. After a painful week trying to organize my Indian visa in Islamabad, I traveled to the south of the Punjab and back (to pick up the visa). Altogether, Pakistan was THE part of my trip where I felt best, enjoyed my travels most and for once, met good fellow-travelers - like-minded people with most of whom, I still am in contact. But sad as it was, I had to push towards India, as I was meeting up with a friend from home there.

Ah, India oh India. What have I heard from my friends about you. And how disappointed was I after visiting you. Not that I disliked it as a such, Indians are great people and a lot of fun, if you know how to deal with them. The country is toxic-wasted and beautiful and the food is a vegetarian’s heaven. But then, there are just too many holiday-making tourists in this country. Pleasure-seekers. Beach-combers. Just simply: NOT MY THING. I got some angry responses to my diary entry from India. And I do not want to make people angry. This is MY personal point of view and hei, everyone to his own. If you like this community-style of 'traveling', fair enough. I am not saying you shouldn't do it or are anything 'worse' than I am as a traveler. I just say it is not for me and I think that people should brag less about having traveled in India. Well, back to the actual travels. I traveled through the Punjab, Gujarat, Mahrashtra, made a stop in Goa to meet a friend from back home and then headed on to Karnataka. To make this clear, I personally had a good time there. But these mainly because I met two friends from back home, Martin whom I had made friends with in Pakistan and Aviad and his crew. I was lucky, because if it would not have been for these people, I might have been quite miserable. However, eventually, it was time for me to leave India. My close friend Bruno was traveling in Thailand at the time and a childhood friend is working on Samui. So off I went. I guess, I do not have to go into the Thailand extensively. It is what you’d expect: smiling people, beautiful beaches and brilliant food. Oh, and of course, loads of party, party, paaaartyyyy. After about two weeks, Bruno and started moving south, through Malaysia towards Singapore, from where I had a flight to Australia. Altogether, this has been a brilliant trip. An adventure par excellance. Raw and rough. Just the way I like it! See the pictures to have some further impressions and read my diary entries during the trip to see how I felt at particular times. And be not shy to contact me for questions.