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So, here we are in Labuanbajo, the western tip of Flores Island and the jumping off point to Komodo. Believe me or not, but after 622 kilometers and 8,918 meters climbed on a bicycle, I am currently suffering more and wish I had to climb up a 1,000 meter mountain pass.
While I'm sitting here on the veranda of the Hotel Matahari, 5 meters from the water and overlooking Labuanbajo Bay, my poor ears have to witness the drawn-out, painful death of music.
See, Labuanbajo is probably the only place on Flores that really is on the tourist map. The reason is it's proximity to the Komodo National Park, home to the famous Komodo Dragons. So yes, there are more tourists here. Not a lot, but more than we have seen in all of our time in Flores, in total. And just now, a young Neo-Hippie couple showed up and took out their instruments. She's playing the Bongo with the sense for rhythm of a crocodile. Although that might be highly unfair to the croc. I mean, if you watch them performing a death roll, there's definitely some rhythm there. Not with this chick. And he's torturing all the great sing-along rock classics with two cords and a thin, off-pitch voice.
Welcome to Paradise.
Speaking of paradise. After arriving in Labuanbajo yesterday, we had our minds set on getting drunk. The last two days riding from Ruteng to Labuanbajo were tough: 137 kilometers and 2053 meters of climbing. The last day consisted mostly of pitches between 10 and 16% which makes for really, really difficult terrain with 35 kilos of luggage strapped to your bike. But we made it. Not only more than the equivalent of summiting Mt Everest (8,918 of altitude gained which is more than the highest mountain on the planet), but also traversing the island, east to west, from Maumere to LB.
Relaxing on the already mentioned veranda, we met Sarah – a Texan girl on the road, on her own, for already six of her eight-month tour. Eventually, Erika and I washed our more than stinking bodies and the three of us headed for dinner at a warung — not to one of the touristy restaurants that prevail in LB. After an excellent meal, Sarah took us to Paradise. Paradise Bar, that is. A bar high above Labuanbajo Bay with a veranda and live bands. The place became lively with the second band. Astonishingly, it became a complete 'sausage fest', as our dear friend Franko would say. Usually, in these sort of places, you have the local girls on the prowl. But not here. Men outnumbered women 10:1. But that didn't stop the dance floor from getting crowded and the boys from getting jiggy with it.
Now, here's a practical tip for getting drunk in Indonesia: stay away from beer and stick with the home-brewed Arak – a palm oil 'wine' (it's actually more of a liquor). A beer, as temptingly cold and refreshing as it may be, costs 25,000 rupiah for a big bottle of Bintang (the local brew). Obviously, it takes several of those to get the two of us drunk, which makes for a relatively big bill here in Indonesia. The Arak, however is a different story. Home brew costs you 45,000 rupiah and it'll get you shwacked (to use one of E!'s favorite terms). E!, Sarah and I went through two of those yesterday. We deserved it!
The pick-up scene at the Paradise was funny. Well, from a guys point of view, I guess. Sarah got accosted from all sides, being tall, white and blond. As Erika was with me and looks more like a local than a bule (westerner), she got a bit less attention. But, one guy actually started talking to me in order to get to Erika by asking me if she was my sister? Say WHAAAT? One of the more bizarre things I have been asked out here.
Anyhow. So, here we are in Labuanbajo, the first mini-goal of our journey. The riding in Flores was definitely tough. Lots of climbing, hot as an oven and sometimes difficult road conditions. But it was all worth it. The views we enjoyed, the people we've met, the food that we tasted...it really is a great traveling destination. I'm not surprised to meet westerners here who try to find jobs (diving, volunteering, etc.), because it is a magical spot on this earth of ours.
Now we have a few days to waste. Our boat will leave on the 24th May, if our information is correct. Tomorrow, we'll head to the bank to replenish our cash pile (hopefully) and visit the PELNI office (PELNI is the Indonesian ferry company). After that, we will probably visit Rinca to see the dragons and stay on some of the outlying islands for some relaxation. And then, yes, it's already time to say goodbye to Flores and hello to the next destination: Sulawesi island in the north. We have not yet decided on the route up there, we have several options all having pros and cons. Something to mull over on the veranda today. Because today, I'm going to do Sweet F$%^ All. ;)
From Labuanbajo Bay, where the death of music is now over.
Adrian |
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